Grand Canyon Hike Rim To Rim To Rim

    South Kaibab  -   North Kaibab  -  Bright Angel  

This doodle will backpack you through my magnificent days inside Grand Canyon. This place is one of nature's beautiful tribute. High standing rocks for many years daring sun, wind, rain, flowing river, forest fire will convey us how small we and our so called problems before this nature.

The extent of planning, preparation and caution we need to take for visiting and staying close to nature will make us realize how humans got disassociated from nature's way of living and turned long away into the modern life. Finally such an effort is worth to have body, mind and soul feel energized from nature.

Refer my pre hike doodle Whether I walked Grand Canyon in 2014 to read how my grand canyon Rim to Rim to Rim plan got initiated.

This expedition commenced with jerky start of flight cancellation and re-planning the whole hike schedule as indicated in my pre hike doodle. Flew out of New York to Flagstaff and arrived South Rim at 6:00 PM on 5th July 2014 through Arizona Shuttle. After filling new permit request form and collecting my permit boarded village route shuttle to Mather Campground.

After preparing tent and sorting the backpack for tomorrow's early start went to bed at 9:00 PM but didn't sleep till 11:00 PM due to excitement.

Hike Day 1 (6th July 2014):

Before sunrise backpacked and geared to step between the long aged rocks. My way to Grand Canyon started from South Kaibab Trail head at 6:20 AM. South Kaibab Trail is a steep trail with descend of 4,860 feet within distance of 6.8 miles. As this walk way was following ridge line the views were scenic and unobstructed. However this means we are also exposed to sun, wind and rain with out any obstruction.

Gazing at the canyon, my feet started descending not knowing what experience I will be delighted by this place for the next three days. Though South Kaibab is most scenic trail this is not much preferred by hikers as there is no water available till Bright Angel. I was the only hiker with huge back pack walking today on this trail which confused me whether I have done mistake of packing too many stuffs. Latter on interacting with few hikers relaxed to know either they are day hikers to view points or staying in Phantom Ranch dorms. Today my backpack weight was about 35 pounds.

Canyon view from South Kaibab Trail head during morning



Descend Stairs in South Kaibab Trail

After an exiting easy 0.9 miles walk looking at the half shaded mountains reached OOH AAH point at 6:50 AM. This view point is a great stop for sunrise. You can see sun chasing the shadows down. OOH AAH point elevation is 6600 feet.


Me at OOH AAH Point

Delighted by the view stepped down talking with park volunteers who are walking down for their work. Descending to elevation 6120 feet reached Cedar ridge at 7:20 AM completing my 1.5 miles. I took backpack off to relax my shoulders.

Dry Tree Branch in Cedar Ridge

View from Cedar Ridge

 

Loading backpack on to relaxed shoulders, legs moved down while eyes gazing around. Reached the big rock which I saw from Cedar Ridge. Walking 3 miles since start and descending to 5200 feet reached skeleton point at 8:25 AM. Sun has already chased away the shades leaving warm breeze.

Standing at big rock which I saw from Cedar Ridge

View from Skelton Point

Still smiling at Skeleton Point

Descend stairs way after Skeleton Point

 

After refreshing snacks at Skeleton Point and slowly descended the steep down stairs. Walking cautiously down these stairs and resting below few rock shades reached tip off point at 9:25 AM. This view point is wide exposed and temperature should have already be at 100F. I took 15 minutes rest here enjoying salt snacks and view.

Mules coming up from Tip Off point

View from Tip Off Point

Restroom at Tip Off

Emergency Phone after Tip Off - 0.2 Miles after tip off

View of river after Tip Off

After Tip Off point trail was almost like no man trail. When stopped to take some breath I felt the nature's silence, down stream river, blowing wind and birds circling the sky.

After few minutes of walk came across three day hikers standing and looking around. They stopped for the buzzing sound thinking that is from rattle snake. I was also listening to this sound since last five descend loops so I guessed that shouldn't be rattle. In one of the blog I read about Cicada insects inside canyon so I doubted those Cicada males.

Bright Angel Campground Site view while descending

Sliver Bridge Across the Colorado River

Black Bridge Across the Colorado River

Walked on the black bridge to reach bright angel creek at 11:00 AM. My legs and shoulders were overjoyed when I off loaded my back pack and rested on a picnic table below a tree shade.

Black Bridge Entrance

Black Bridge

View of river and rocks from black bridge

After lunch rested in Bright Angel campground shelter place till 3:00 PM and started walk to Cotton Wood.


Afternoon Rest Place for quick nap

Walk to cottonwood is 6.4 miles mostly flat rocky path with little ascend in the last one mile. After crossing Phantom ranch a snake crossed over my path. This snake cautioned me to look down and  ahead while walking this trail. Today evening journey to cottonwood was no man's trail walk. In this trail met grassing wild deer's, busy running lizards, flies, insects, Cicada's buzzing sound, streams, birds circling over you.



Deer on side of stream

Deer grassing leaves in the plants

Walked this trail in rain and thunderstorm. While nearing Ribbon falls junction my calf and thigh muscles were cramping due to electrolyte imbalance. While walking uphill had sudden cramp on my left leg's calf muscle and have to sit down in muddy slope with rain water running downhill. After 5 minutes managed to stand and walk slowly the last mile to reach Cottonwood at 7:30 PM.

Most walk path to Cotton Wood from Bright Angel is similar to one in picture

View of Canyon top while walking to Cottonwood from Bright Angel

It was cloudy and raining while I was shivering in my wet clothes and cramped muscles setting the tent in Cottonwood. After drying myself, had water with electrolyte tablets and salt. Though temperature was pleasant outside have to stay inside tent's warm humid temperature.

Tent in Cottonwood at 4080 feet high

Hike Day 2 (7th July 2014):

Yesterday night most time it was drizzling and had disturbed sleep with ached body. Morning woke up at 4:30 AM with cramped legs and feet. Managed to walk out of tent to stretch the body but still was feeling tired and worried about the second day hike. I almost called off my Rim to Rim to Rim hike plan and went inside tent. Lying inside tent hearing steps of hikers lured me to walk out of tent limping.  After some thought said to me take good rest and rework the plan. Decided to sleep till body clock wakes me up.Woke up at 7:45 AM, feeling fresh both mind and body made the same conclusion to walk up the North Rim.

Today hike to North Rim is to reach elevation of 8,250 feet which is 6.8 miles from Cottonwood campsite

After packing only food, water and basic survival medical kit started walking towards North Rim in North Kaibab Trail at 8:20 AM. Though it was late start I was accompanied by hikers from Bright Angel to North Rim. Since it will be ascend from inside canyon, temperature will get better as we gain altitude and there will be pine tree shades in last few mile close to north rim.

After 15 minutes of walk, body was feeling conformable though cramped calf muscles had slight pain. I was mixing electrolytes with water and maintaining proper balance to avoid previous day mistake. After 1.4 miles walk reached ranger station at 8:55 AM. Had some breakfast snacks and refilling water started walking.

Me at Cottonwood Ranger Station

Starting here walk will be ascend and exposed to sun. After speaking with another hiker about Roaring Springs decided to skip this place and walked directly up to Supai tunnel. After couple of rest breaks below rock shades reached Supai tunnel at 11:30 AM. While walking toward Supai tunnel you can see the rock colors changing to red sand and so the trail paths.

Rocks while walking up North Rim

Me at one of rest place in rock shade. I call this shade place as PALACE.

North Kaibab Trail path on the edge of big rocks

Pillar Rocks



In front of Supai Tunnel on Red Sand Trails. Supai Tunnel elevation is 6800 feet.

Reached North Kaibab Trail head at 1:00 PM after stop in Coconino view point. Hike up from Supai tunnel was accompanied by day hikers. All the way up the Supai tunnel has pine tree shades so it was relaxing ascend.

Coconino view point

Reaching North Kaibab trail I was more excited than tired as now my plan to Rim to Rim to Rim can be made as reality. I was overjoyed and started looking for shelter to rest. Surprisingly there was no shelter available close to trailhead so decided to relax in tree shade in front of trail head itself.

8250 feet high relaxing on North Kaibab Trail head.

Rest place in front of North Kaibab Trailhead

North Kaibab Squirrel

After lunch and two hours of rest started descend journey to cottonwood at 3:15 PM. Decided to walk slowly enjoying the views which I might have missed during hike up in flashing sunlight.

On feet to accomplish the second half of walk

View from Coconino view point

While walking down stopped to watch for birds, butterflies, shadowed rocks and trail color changes.

Descend Red Sand Trail to Supai Tunnel

Bird Watching

Bird Watching

Bird Watching

Flowers and Butterfly

Today evening return journey to cottonwood was like on no man's trail. Came across only one hiker passing me as I walking slowly with stops enjoying the views.

Trail after Supai Tunnel

Trail on the edge of red rocks

After red rock trail. Standing on sandstone rocks

Multi colored canyon layers

Each layer has generation story

Tent in Cottonwood

Cicada insect

Reached cottonwood campsite at 6:45 PM. Today it was cloudy and light breeze at the campsite. Enjoyed dinner looking around the rocks and was laying on camp bench for an hour looking at sky reminding of my childhoods vacation times in grand father's village. At 9:00 PM checked me into tent but it was warm inside the tent so it took me while to fall asleep.

Hike Day 3 (8th July 2014):

After having late sleep due to warm weather woke up at 4:45 AM and backpacked to start on the return hike to Indian Garden. Today hike will be flat till Bright Angel and the uphill to Indian Garden.

Started from Cottonwood at 6:15 AM and walked to Ribbon falls. Walk to Ribbon falls will be 0.6 mile round trip extra walk. Visit to this falls is recommended where you feel like that you are not in mid of desert land. Cool temperature and green algae's on the walk way to falls.

Ribbon Falls

Green Algae Covered Rock

Morning Workout in Ribbon Falls Bridge

After visit to Ribbon falls was back on trail to Bright Angel at 7:30 AM. This was a relaxed walk enjoying the plants and rocks. After this refreshing walk reached Bright Angel Campground at 10:30 AM. Most of the walk was in shade as it was early start today.

Mountain Lizard that will be crossing all your way in trail. Watch for them.

Cactus plants

Fly

 

View while walking to Bright Angel

Trail path to Bright Angel from Cottonwood

Phanthom Ranch lodges with air conditioners

Phantom Ranch volley ball playground

After breakfast snack and soaking the legs in creek started from Bright Angel at 11:30 AM. I decided to walk in sun today so I can be at plateau point for sunset. Crossed the sliver bridge to merge into Bright Angel Trail. After crossing the bridge rested for 15 minutes enjoying the river and mountains.

Sliver Bridge from Bright Angel Campsite

Before stepping on the Silver bridge

River view from Silver bridge

Started the afternoon walk in Bright Angel trail which was on the edge of rock with river on the other side. In some places walk will be on fine sand which slows you down. It is worth stopping at multiple places and enjoying the water flow and rocks.

After crossing Silver bridge

Sand trail

Current in river water

View of river while in trail

After an hour of slow walk with multiple stops reached river rest house at 12:35 PM and walked to Pipe Creek beach. This beach is close to river rest house. Had lunch sitting on the river side. During my previous hike in canyon during 2011, Thilak and me walked starting Bright Angel trailhead till this beach and turned back. Looked at the rocks where we rested last time and this place remained unchanged. After spending 30 minutes looking at river water, currents in river and rafting boats started from beach at 1:30 PM.

Rafters in wild river

In Pipe Creek Beach

Place where Thilak and Me rested during 2011 canyon hike. Still remained unchanged.



Water flow in river

Walk to Indian Garden campsite is 3.2 miles uphill from the beach place. Sun is already at top and while walking on the side of rocks you can feel the waves of heat. Touched the rocks to feel the heat. Without enough water if anyone is stranded then it will be difficult to manage in a place like this. Slowly ascended the first mile. First mile was easy for the body as I rested for almost 45 minutes on river side and some of the walk was on the creek side.

Second mile was uphill on heat wave rocks on one side and wide exposed to sun on the other side. Managed to walk up slowly sipping electrolyte mixed water. My backpack weight was also slowing me down. Today afternoon walk taught me the difference between day hikes in state parks and inside canyon. Canyon hike is challenging due to prevailing hot temperature and exposed walk to sun and wind.

Uphill Bright Angel Trail to Indian Garden from Pipe Creek Beach

Trails exposed to sun during mid day

After walking the second mile, third mile was partially in sun, crossing creeks and trees. Walking leisurely with stops at shades, enjoying creeks reached Indian Garden at 3:45 PM.

Climbed this rock

Shady close by Indian Garden Campsite

Deer in Indian Garden

110F at 3:45 PM below tree shade in Indian Garden

After having lunch, plan was to hike plateau point for sunset. Suddenly around 4:45 PM heavy wind started blowing followed by rain and thunders. Plateau point hike plan has to be cancelled due to this bad weather. Indian Garden campsites have sun shade shelter for each picnic table which shielded us from rain.

Rain water flowed down and flooded the campsite and tree branches fell down in some of the campsites. Decided not to set tent for tonight rather planned to sleep inside sleeping bag on the picnic table. Since no plan after 6:00 PM walked around campsite and was speaking to some hikers just to pass time.

Deer grassing near to campsite

 

My campsite flooded with water

 

My tonight's bed

 

At 9:00 PM slept on the picnic table, during night time have to wake up many times as deer's, rabbits and rats were running around the campsites.

 Hike Out Day (9th July 2014):

Today was early wake at 4:15 AM to pack for early start. Started walking from Indian Garden at 5:15 AM. Today hike out distance is 4.5 miles uphill on steep slopes and stairs. In Bright Angel Trail there are two drinking water sources between Indian Garden and Trailhead so hiked with less water to reduce backpack weight.

After steady start reached 3 Miles rest house at 6:00 AM. After 10 minutes rest break, hiked up and reached 1.5 Miles rest house at 6:55 AM. After 10 minutes rest break hiked up further with breaks on view points and reached Bright Trail head at 8:00 AM completing my Rim to Rim to Rim hike plan.

After reaching trailhead



Without them I couldn't have hiked IN and OUT. Walking pole was my third leg in hike.

Way to Bright Angel Trail

During initial planning I underrated the Canyon and was over confident with my hiking capabilities. Canyon is an unique inverted hike, walking down first and hike up when your legs are tired. Going down is optional but coming up is mandatory so recommendation is walk the canyon at your own comfortable pace enjoying the rocks.

This Rim to Rim to Rim (South Kaibab Trailhead to North Kaibab Trail Head to Bright Angel Trailhead) hike was 46 miles of hike. Hike started at elevation 7260 feet (South Kaibab) and descended to 2400 feet (Colorado River) and ascended to 8250 feet (North Kaibab).